PYRAMID SCHEMES


                                                                            I'm not sure I ever thought that I                    
                                                                             would be in Africa for any reason in              
                                                                             my life. Im not sure people are really              
                                                                            supposed to go there. I think Africa              
                                                                            is just for learning about on animal           
channels. Maybe in the back of our minds we all have this thought that someday it would  
be great to go on a safari in Africa. Although in reality, when is this time in my life that      
I'm going on safaris? It's probably right around the same time that I write my novel, learn    
how to hang glide, and quit huffing paint. Yet landing a job on a cruise line has taken me   
to Egypt. We pull into the port of Alexandria at about six a.m. and hop on a bus for        
three hours . An armed guard rides with us, 'just in case'. We drive past typical highway   
scenery with the exception of everything being in Arabic; billboards, road signs, even the  
goats were in Arabic. Arabic letters consist of squiggly lines and random dots. It's what    
doctors use to write prescriptions. Once in Cairo, all the buildings are either fallen            
apart, or on their way to falling apart. We stop at an Egyptian museum, the highlight of    
which I found were the mummified animals. Ancient Egyptians would mummify animals       
and buried them with their owner. It was believed that when the mummified person was       
reincarnated, their animal companion would be reincarnated right along with them.               
Although some of the mummified animals they found were snakes, elephants and               
crocodiles. What a mean prank that is?

"Hey Aheed, let's mummify this crocodile and bury it with Amed, then thousands      of
years from now when he wakes up, he'll be stuck in a tomb with a reincarnated                
crocodile!! Oh, that will so get him back for carving hieroglyphics in my face when I was      
passed out drunk."

There was a glass case of what archeologists believed were caskets made for dung     
beetles. Either the Egyptians had too much time on their hands, or some archeologist      
won't admit that all he found were a bunch of jewelry boxes. Most of the museum              
consists of small artifacts found from the time of the pharaohs; tiny statues, charms,         
jewelry. Basically, it's thousands of years old crap. It was probably shit you would have    
found in Cleopatra's junk drawer. Makes me wonder if thousands of years from now, my  
old batteries, rubber band ball and banana magnet are going to be behind a glass case in  
an overpriced exhibit.  

                                                    After the museum we stop by an ancient mosque,               
                                                     the back of which contains a courtyard with a                      
                                                      tremendous view overlooking the city. Two small                 
                                                      triangles camping out in the smog caked horizon                 
                                                      make up our first glimpse of the  pyramids. From               
                                                      the dirty buildings below you could hear the                       
                                                      sounds of
at least two dozen cars horns screaming at each
other at all times. A random fire burned in the
middle of the decaying urban landscape. In fact
random fires were a regular sight in Cairo. I believe
the fires are subsidized by the Egyptian
government to ensure the constant feel of chaos
throughout the city.

As we head towards our hotel we pass through a residential area. Like most of their  
roads, the opposing directions of traffic are separated by a stagnate stream of polluted  
water. Our whole bus erupts with moans of disgust as we pass a dead horse floating in     
the water. I wonder if that's some kids chore.

"Hassan, did you remember to take the dead horse out of the water?"           

"But mom, I wanted to go play in the city fire!!"           

It reminded me of that old wise saying: you can beat a dead horse in water, but you    
can't make him drink with his gift mouth. Because he's dead.

We chill out at our hotel for a few hours before heading out for some hot Egyptian   
nightlife. The streets are filled with these VW vans that have been spray painted white,   
I can only assume to fight the day desert sun. Although they had no signs indicating it,     
they appeared to be taxis. They would drive with their side doors open and let people     
in and out along the strip. Its so manic through. Guys would scream and run alongside       
one of these vans before the VW would slow down just barely enough for the person to   
hop in and then speed off . It was almost as if there were four or five people hopping in    
getaway cars around me at any moment. It was enough to make me hang on a little more      
tightly to my purse.

It was at night that we got our first up close look at the pyramids and sphinx. Under         
                                                       what context? You guessed it, via a mediocre laser            
                                                       light show. Lasers consisting only of the color green         
                                                       drew geometric shapes and lines on the thousands           
                                                       of years old structures to the same cheesy music              
                                                       that plays in every 'B' movie when the aliens start             
                                                        landing on earth. How exactly did that decision go           
                                                        down? Were people filling out comment cards after          
                                                       seeing the pyramids saying, "Yes, I did enjoy seeing  the
oldest and best preserved of the ancient  wonders of the world to a point. It just         
wasn't 'cosmic bowling' enough."

Next stop is dinner on a boat cruising the Nile. The ship has two levels on it, the        top
of which was a dinning room with an Egyptian buffet. We had been told before the    trip
not to eat any fruit, vegetables or drink the water. Despite the warning, I see a girl      
from our tour bus eating a salad. I say, "Hey, you know we're not suppose to eat the        
vegetables right?"

She replies, "If I want a salad, I'm going to have a salad. Ok?"

I've never wanted a salad so bad, that I'm willing to wear a diaper for the next week.

"Hey Nick, we're going to hop in pool, wanna go?"                                     

"Sorry, can't. I'm wearing pampers. Yeah, I was in Cairo, and I couldn't say no to        
cherry tomatoes. I know they warned me, but when in my life am I ever again going to get    
the chance to have lettuce?"

As we ate, entertainment was forced upon us, to keep any sort of conversation          
from transpiring. A band made up of twelve instruments, all of which were either a drum,   
a flute or some sort of emaciated guitar, played in the middle of the dinning room. A man  
in a skirt spun around in circles to the music for the better part of an hour. I was hoping    
this was all leading up to him stopping and then trying to run in a straight line. That           
would have been great entertainment. But all that really happened was that he stopped,  
took off his skirt and put it on his head, and then started spinning the other way. The      
band played a dozen or so songs, but I can't for the life of me tell you what the                  
difference between any of the songs were. After each song, they would stop, lean into     
each other, talk, then return to their instruments and start playing what appeared to be    
the exact same song they had just played. I wondered what they were talking about each  
time. If they were just leaning in and saying,"So you guys want to play that same song       
again?"                                                                                              

"Might as well, it's the only one we know."

The next day we hit the great pyramids, up
close, with no lasers. Pretty incredible. There is
an opening to one of the pyramids that allows us
to go down into one of it's tombs. A random man
sitting at the passage of the opening tries to scam
us by charging us one euro to go down. We say
that it was our understanding that it was free to
walk inside the pyramid. He says, 'Yes, you are
right. Go ahead in pyramid, have fun,' and let us
down. He was so up front about being called out.
I wish scammers in america were like that .

"Hey man can you give me a dollar, I just got fired today for being so hungary that I   got
hit by a car."                                                                                  

"No you didn't."                                                                                         

"You're right, I'm actually doing pretty well for myself. Now go in pyramid and have     
fun."

We walk through the opening and climb down a passageway leading to a tomb. I'm       
careful not to hit any loose stones, for if Hollywood has taught me anything, that will         
either cause the entire structure to come crumbling down around me, or open up a             
passageway that would send me on the adventure of a lifetime. Which I'm all about            
adventures of lifetimes, but I'm also all about not missing my tour bus. As I walk through   
the passageway back outside, I smack my head on the opening. I hate when I hit my head  
on a pyramid.

We go to the Sphinx. I think staring at the Sphinx truly had the most overwhelming    
feeling of seeing the world that I have had so far. Although whenever I've pictured the     
Sphinx, I've always                                                                             pictured it in the              
middle ofno where, in                                                                           the desert, hundreds     
of miles from                                                                                         anything. The reality     
of it is that the                                                                                     Sphinx is actually           
across the street                                                                                 from a KFC/Pizza         
Hut. I was                                                                                            disappointed at first       
until I learned that                                                                               the KFC/Pizza Hut      
was also built by the                                                                           ancient Egyptians. I        
have only about                                                                                    fifteen minutes to take  
in the once of a lifetime moment of seeing the sphinx, our bus driver is bored and is            
ready to drive the three hours back to Alexandria.

 Once back at the ship, it hits me that I've now been to Africa. Sure, Egypt has      
more of an Middle Eastern feel to it than the traditional images Africa brings up. But it  
is technically Africa. I've now been to Africa, maybe I will someday write my novel.              
Maybe I will someday learn how to hang glide. Ah, who am I kidding, where's my                 
sandwich bag of paint?